The Harkey Blog

Thursday, June 30, 2005

Purple And More - Turkey, Day 10

Monday, June 6, 2005

We woke up Monday morning and after breakfast we all walked out to the corner of Işiklar and Attatürk to meet some friends who were going to take us out to a poorer area of northern Antalya. When we got there, we prayer walked for about an hour in several different groups. I was with Jay and Jennifer. We were a bunch of white folks walking through neighborhoods that probably never saw white people. We stood out in a major way. As we were walking and praying, there was a point when I could see 4 different mosques from one vantage point and they were all within about 2 blocks from where I was. You could tangibly feel the spiritual oppression in that place.

When we gathered back together, we started to attract a whole bunch of kids. There were probably about 25 kids that had flocked to us – it was awesome. For some reason, it seems like children of all cultures are really beautiful. We had a good time joking around with them and showing them pictures from our digital cameras that we took of them.


After a while, we walked over to a women’s center that was sponsored by the local government (I think). It was basically a place where women of the neighborhood could come for all kinds of classes, ranging from reading to cooking. It was the nicest building in the neighborhood and our friends there were really trying to build a good relationship with the administration so that they could do English classes there. They wanted to do this as a way to build relationships so that they could share the gospel with them. We sat around for a while drinking çay (tea) and talking with some of the leaders there. Then we bought some head scarves from them that the women had made in a sewing class. They had something like 8 scarves and we bought every last one of them. It was probably more than they had sold in the past 6 months.

When we left, there were several boys in a field flying kites… made from newspapers. It was one of the most resourceful things I’ve seen.


We soon left and drove to a place called Düden Falls. This was a spot about 1 mile away from where we had prayer walked. I was caught off guard because I expected it to be quite a ways away somewhere in the mountains. Instead it was in a completely flat area where the earth just gave way to erosion at one point and created a dramatic waterfall. We spent about an hour walking around and admiring the river and the falls.

Then we hopped back in the van and drove to Akdeniz Universitesi. We headed over to the outdoor food court and ate at Han Pizza. After lunch, we prayer walked in groups. My group walked a long ways, but mostly in the vicinity of the medical school and University hospital.

After prayer walking, “T” and I rode the Dolmuş back downtown to meet Metin, the Associate Pastor of the Church while the others walked down to the beach park. Metin wanted to order a computer from Dell and needed some help configuring it, so I offered my assistance. We met him in a smoky internet café (there are no non-smoky internet cafes in Turkey) near his apartment. Ordering the computer took a while because the connection was slow, but we eventually got it worked out. I took the opportunity to check and send email before we left.

We bid Metin farewell and rode the Tromvay to Konyalta (where the beach park is). We walked down to the beach and started looking for our group. After calling them on the cell phone, we found out that they were hanging out at the Nargile Salon. We first stopped at a little food spot and grabbed a snack of potato and cheese filled pastries. Then we walked to where the group was. After we found everyone, we all decided to grab a bite to eat at a restaurant near the beach. By this time, several Turkish friends had joined us. We found a restaurant and ate at tables outside. I ordered a chicken sandwich (cız mayonnaise). When my sandwich came out, lo and behold it had mayo on it. This was kind of funny because in Turkey, they pretty much put mayo on everything. Each time, I requested no mayo and they always got it right. This was the one time that any restaurant made a mistake. I guarantee I wouldn’t have had as successful of a run in the U.S. Half of the time when I order a sandwich without something on it here in the U.S., it comes out wrong.

After dinner, some of us had planned on staying at the beach park to see a great Turkish rock band, Mör Ve Otesi play for free. The others headed back to Kaleçi and to the pansion. On Friday, “I” handed me his iPod and insisted that I listen to Mör Ve Otesi, saying that they were the biggest band in Turkey. They are from Istanbul and their name translates to “Purple and More”. I really liked them, so on Saturday, I went by a music shop and bought their CD. Then on Saturday night, we heard that they were going to play FOR FREE at the beach park on Monday night. Sweet. Free show. Big Turkish rock band. I’m in.

So me, James, “I”, Jennifer and some Turks walked over to where the show was going to be. They weren’t letting anyone in for another 30 minutes, so we hung out and chilled. Finally they let us in, so we headed inside. There was no opening band, but Mör Ve Otesi put on a great show. Other than the fact that their lyrics were all Turkish, they sounded just like any good band from the U.S. I did notice one interesting thing. First, a bit of background. Turkish men are very affectionate with one another. It isn’t unusual to see 2 guys walking down the street with their arms around each others necks. Or even holding hands. So at the concert, several times we would see a line of 5-10 guys with their arms around each others necks. Then they would all jump up and down in unison, keeping the line intact. We tried it with some of our Turkish friends, but apparently it takes special skills that Turks learn at a young age because we Americans failed miserably at it. Oh well, we still had lots of fun trying.


After the show, we had to walk all the way back to Kaleçi because the Tromvay stops running at 9:00 and the show didn’t end until somewhere around 11:00. About halfway there, “I” and I walked Peylin (a Turkish girl that had been hanging out with Jennifer) back to her apartment while the rest of the group headed back to the Pansion. Apparently her neighborhood wasn’t the safest of places for a single girl to be walking by herself late at night. When we got to her building, we met her dad who was just coming home from a fishing trip. He offered to cook us some fish – he was just getting ready to cook it up for supper – at 11:30 p.m.! We kindly declined, saying that we had already eaten. He did insist that we taste his homemade red wine, which he was carrying in a 2 liter bottle. We tried the wine and complimented him on his winemaking skills. He thanked us for walking his daughter home, we bid them farewell and took off for the pansion.

About halfway there, we came upon a beautiful area in Antalya where you could see the old clock tower and two beautiful mosques that are lit up at night. I had wanted to take night shots of these landmarks, but we hadn’t been in this exact spot at night until now. I asked “I” if he would mind if we stopped so I could take some shots. He agreed, so I spent 30 minutes or so taking shots.

Then we walked back to the pansion. We actually sat outside the pansion for quite a while talking about life and such – we probably talked for another hour. Finally, we both got quite sleepy, so he headed back to his apartment and I headed upstairs to catch some shuteye.

Another amazing day.

5 Comments:

  • Hey...you need to hurry up and post more Turkey stuff. I ran out of pictures. From here on out, they're all stolen from you. Ha.

    So, how are the Rockies lookin'? Still tall?

    By Blogger James Miller, at 12:03 AM  

  • Maybe you'll just have to draw a sketch...

    I'll probably post more soon. Maybe after we get back from Colorado.

    And yes, the Rockies are still tall. And rocky. It's a beautiful day here - 4th of July in the mountains is quite nice.

    By Blogger Brett, at 12:04 PM  

  • Oh my Heck you are a great photographer Brett. I guess I really never took the time to soak in all the pics'...but today was the day. MAN...you rock!

    By Blogger Shelli, at 12:10 PM  

  • Hi Brett,

    I found your blog looking for stuff on Antalya. I read the first paragraph and wanted to write a really really abusive reply.

    Instead, perhaps there are some things you should think about. I wonder when you look at mosques and relate it to islam and then to spiritual oppression, it may be that you have been brainwashed by the introverted and totally introspective US media. Just as a theological exercise, read the koran. It is a very inspiring book, as is the bible. However, taken grossly out of context, it produces fundamentalism, as does the bible, and in either case it is unhealthy. In the worst case scenario it leads to wars, such as the crusades or the iraq war.

    I am also offended by you wandering around the streets of my town giving out simit and telling them that jesus loves them. They know that - jesus is one of their prophets. It might have been more appropriate for you to kill a sheep and hand out the meat - this is what the locals do at bayram, in remembrance of Abraham. (yes, the Abraham was asked to sacrifice his son).

    I think what has really annoyed me is the self-righteous way in which you seek to step into a place you obviously know very little about and try to teach them to be like you (in the coca-cola, symbol of free west sense). What makes you so sure you're right? God probably did send you here, but for what reason? Their spiritual growth, or yours? To open their eyes, or to open yours?

    How much oppression did you feel from those people you sat and talked with? In what way did it differ from in the states? Perhaps it was friendlier? Would you approach and chat with an American restaurant or shop owner? Would an American offer such hospitality? Did you notice how little fear there is here, even walking around at 11 at night?

    So, you have offended me. I hope not to offend you, rather make you think a little.

    I will not sign this, but to give you understanding of the author, I am not Turkish, or Muslim, or Christian. I do believe that fundamentalism in ANY form is dangerous and unhealthy. I live in Turkey because I love the place and the people, and I think they both deserve more credit than you give them in this blog.

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 2:55 PM  

  • Dear Anonymous -

    Just a couple of thoughts in response...

    In regards to the village where there were multiple mosques within view and my comment about spiritual oppression. I did not say anything about ISLAM and spiritual oppression. I said that IN THAT VILLAGE, where I could see so many mosques within 1 block of one another, I could sense the spiritual oppression. Since you claim that you are neither Muslim or Christian, and you are clearly offended by fundamentalism, surely you could agree that spiritual oppression could exist when a people group are DOMINATED by one group/religion. This could likely happen in ANY country and by ANY group/religion.

    Just to further prove my point - I've felt spiritual oppression in other places too - even here in the USA.

    As for the Koran... I am actually very familiar with it.

    I'm not surprised that you were offended at our handing out simit. Several locals were offended at that as well. It seems to me that what we did was a classic clash of cultures. In western culture, to hand out food isn't seen as an offensive thing. In eastern culture, particularly muslim culture, it is more culturally appropriate to give MONEY to the needy (alms) instead of food. I'm not sure if I would do that the same way if given a 2nd opportunity, but it is was very interesting experience.

    I think that you misunderstand something fundamental about me. I didn't step into a place that I "obviously knew very little about and try to teach them to be like me." I went to learn, understand, experience the culture. And, when given the opportunity, to share my beliefs with some people, while listening to their beliefs as well. Why did God send me there? I think for my spiritual growth AND theirs.

    I never claimed to feel any oppression in walking around the streets of Antalya. On the contrary, I felt very comfortable and free. You mentioned that you thought that I needed to give more credit to Turkey (Antalya in particular) in my blog. If you read closely, you'll see that I did gain a HUGE appreciation for the place and the people. I thoroughly enjoyed the people, the culture, the friendliness, the food, etc. I agree with you that America and Americans have much to learn from the Turks in regards to hospitality and relationships. That is one of the most significant lessons I learned while there.

    I won't back down from my observations while there. They were just what they were - MY OBSERVATIONS. I recognize that they are biased by my own experiences and home culture. But then again, your observations about another culture would be biased similarly, wouldn't they? We all view the world through OUR OWN lenses. Additionally, I don't accept American culture as fully right, good or correct. There is much about my own culture that I disagree with or am disgusted by.

    I think that the ability to critique a culture (whether one's own culture or a "foreign" one) is a valuable skill. I'm not personally a big fan of Nationalism - whether it be American, Brazilian, British, Chinese or Turkish.

    I'm not offended by your comments. I would hope upon further reflection, you wouldn't be offended by mine, either.

    Furthermore, why comment anonymously? I enjoy the dialogue, but it's hard to dialogue with someone is anonymous.

    By Blogger Brett, at 3:55 PM  

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